You see, sometimes I have really good ideas. But in practice, they don’t always work out as perfectly as hoped.
In this case, the first step of the cast off is to work a row on one side of the knitting only, in order to balance the row that will be created with Kitchener stitch. With the pink yarn, I knit the pink stitches and slipped the grey purl stitches. This is all as it should be. Then, I should have broken the pink yarn and with the grey worked the Kitchener stitch cast off. But I used the pink yarn, thinking it would be more visible and therefore clearer. In retrospect, I don’t think so. And I think it makes it confusing, sort of defeating the purpose of knitting the extra pink row. So, yeah, sorry about that…. What you should do is work an extra row in one color and then bind off in the other color. Also-although I used a larger needle to demonstrate, generally double knitting is knit with a smaller needle, creating a firmer, more tidy fabric. Mine may look a little, err, unblocked. But rest assured, it will look great when you do it!
Anywho, here it is:
Kitchener stitch with grey yarn instead of pink to make a balanced bind-off.
As ever, I hope this was helpful and if you have any requests/constructive criticisms, lemme know!
Swiss darning, also known as duplicate stitch, is a really easy technique to learn and very handy to know. As the name suggests, it is used to reinforce and mend knitting, but is also lovely for embroidery that replicates the structure of the knitting.
Speaking of structure, here is a little diagram of a row of knitting. When Swiss darning, always begin at the base of the 2 “legs” of a stitch.
*click on any image to enlarge
Top tips for Swiss darning:
use a blunt needle,
plan your embroidery: start at an edge or corner and have a look at the direction of work before you begin,
do not pull the stitches too tightly–keep them nice and loose and then tighten them up a little after every row if they need it,
come at the first stitch from the wrong side of the fabric and leave a 10 cm /4 inch tail of yarn to weave in at the end.
For this example, I use this simple chart with black embroidery on a pink background:
The chart tells us that the embroidery is to be a rectangle 3 stitches wide and 3 rows high. I begin in the lower right-hand corner.
Do let me know if you find this useful! As ever, any questions or comments are welcome, especially if you have any suggestions about how I can make things more clear, more concise–more useful to you!
This was a little diversion from the double knit tutorials as I have a pattern coming out that features Swiss darning and wanted to make sure everyone knows how to.
Although this blog is my space for going on ad nauseam about hand-knitting, a funny thing happened the other day and, you know, I gotta share. Cos it’s what I do.
As hand-knitting is my first love and the knitting machines are now so numerous as to impede access to the studio altogether, the logical thing to do was sell a machine or 3 to free up a bit of room at the studio and, well, it never hurts to have a little extra cash either. So I dusted off the ol’ camera and took some pics: *Click to enlarge*
I suspect it’s like selling a home–you want to move, so you fix everything up and then think, ‘ohh, maybe I shouldn’t move, it’s actually really nice here.’
So I took my pictures, and am now loath to part with the beasts. There are just too many jumpers I haven’t knit, too many techniques I haven’t tried! I cannot quite part with my awesome toys. Yet.
But in other news, the hand knits are slowly but surely multiplying–like rabbits in slow motion, they come forth. Posts soon to come on those things.
Previously in the double knit tutorial series, we learned to cast on, and then to work the first row. To continue the double knit technique series, let’s look at working a chart, and creating a tidy slipped stitch edge as we go.
Double knit chart
Aww, isn’t it sweet! The chart is 7 stitches wide so we cast on 14 stitches in total: 7 for the front and 7 for the back. Double knitting creates a fabric twice as thick as a stockinette stitch fabric, with both sides showing the ‘right’, or knit-side of a stockinette stitch fabric. Although completely different patterns can be worked on each side, for this example we are going to work the same pattern in reversed colours–i.e. a grey square on a pink background. This is achieved by working the knit stitch in one colour and the following purl stitch in the other colour every time, as illustrated below.
Click the image to supersize.
Step 1. EastLondonKnit Double knit tutorial
Step 9, alternate view
Last, but not least, we will look at how to finish off the work with a tubular bind off.